Tuesday, November 16, 2004

Baja Sur

Leaving Guerrero Negro we entered into the southern half of Baja. We coasted once again into our home away from home out in the desert. I was missing the vultures atop the cactus with their wings spread enjoying the breeze, and the quiet nights under the stars. Chad was missing a few pounds and growing thinner and thinner by the minute. Came across a nice little oasis in San Ignacio and decided to stay there for the night after only a 15 mile ride. A few flat tires in the morning made that decision easy. Next day, we rode through a mini-Grand Canyon which brought us into Santa Rosalia on the Sea of Cortez. This town had a little character to it. By this time, me and Chad were beginning to think we were super studs, having rode all the way from San Diego. Until we met Justin that is, an English guy who has been touring on his bike for the last 2 1/2 years! After hearing his tales of riding through India, southeast Asia, the outback of Australia, through Canada and the States, and now on his way to the tip of South America and then Africa; I don't think he was too impressed with our ability to change a broken spoke on a tire. We actually began to feel bad for having a beer and enjoying a taco, cause this guy was living off $3 a day, showering once a month and camping every night. So anyway, we spent the night with Justin enjoying some Pacifico's in the town plaza and camping outside town. The next day we bid farewell to that crazy bastard and headed south for Mulege. Once again we found no evidence of any nightlife or civilization whatsoever in these towns of Baja. We were beginning to suspect that the vultures were eating all the people on the peninsula. We made a pact that night to get to La Paz and on a ferry to Mazatlan as soon as possible. But the next day our pact was tested as we finally found a glimpse of the paradise we were seeking. Gorgeous beach after gorgeous beach, Hawaii-style, were everywhere. There was hope afterall for Baja. So now we've made it to Loreto which actually seems to have some life to it. Baja has been an outstanding ride, but we're thirsty for some beach time and a little music. A few more nights in the desert and we'll be there.

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