Wednesday, March 09, 2005

Nicaragua

Nicaragua? Who goes to Nicaragau unless they want to get shot by a bunch of revolutionaries? Or killed by a hurricane? It seems times are a-changing down here and tourism is picking up big time. This country is destined to be the next Costa Rica and it's easy to see why. Incredible landscape, amazing people and not to tough on the wallet.
After staying in Leon for a few days to rest up and replace the rear rack on the Rooster, I headed south for Granada. Stayed one night on a lagoon that's as close to a National Park as I've seen since leaving the States. Actually, I decided to camp just outside the park as there was some guy running around with a shotgun. Not exactly sure what he was up to, could have been security. But I wasn't about to camp out in a place where there was a need for security, or shotguns.
Next morning, came into the capital of Managua which is urban sprawl times 1,000. Luckily, ran into a Nicaraguan who was on his daily bike ride to work, and he showed me the best way to get through the city. Nicaraguans really enjoy bicycling with you. I've had more conversations on my bike here than anywhere else. And there seems to be this misconception that, since I've biked from the States, I must be extremely rapido (fast). What else can explain all the kids who pull up behind me, pedaling as fast as their little legs will take them, then dart past with that little smirk on their faces. Gotta luv it.
So came into Granada and realized right away I was back in Gringo-ville. An amazing city that you can feel is growing by the second. One night, decided to go out for just ONE beer and somehow ended up on an all-night binge with some Nico-rich college kid who drove me around in his sportscar. Some latino bars, a couple discos, and a few house parties later I arrived back at the hotel at 5am after my one beer. Anyways, on my way outa the hotel (a couple days after my hang-over subsided) I planned on heading for the beach of San Juan Del Sur. But after talking to the guy at the desk, Abba, he told me that I needed to go to Ometepe Island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua. He said it was the perfect place to explore on bicycle.
So, all pumped up now after hearing him describe it, I headed for the island. Down the road aways, ran into a guy from San Francisco (Mateo) who was also doing a ride through Central America. We had some good conversation and a good brunch, then parted ways as he headed for San Juan and I went and hopped on the ferry to the island. Once I got to Ometepe, some French guy came up to me and asked if I was Jeremy from Minnesota who was doing a bike ride to Panama. What the..?? Now, let me just double-check here. I've never been to France. And I've never been to Nicaragua before, let alone this island. And when I added up the amount of French people I know with the amount that I've actually even met, somehow I came up with a negative number. So how the hell does this guy know me? Well, it seems Abba from Granada had emailed him to let him know I may show up, because the French guy (Jean-Michele) wanted to do a 3-day bike ride around the island also. Why not I decided.
So the next morning we took off. And I mean took off. Jean-Michele didn't just want to bike the island...he wanted to race around it. So now, after expecting a nice leisure ride for a few days, I found myself in the middle of my own Tour de France. Luckily, Jean-Michele pooped out once we hit some hills. But, to make matters worse, I failed to ask Abba if the roads were paved or not. If there's one thing I've learned on this trip, it's to NEVER, EVER assume anything. Of course, they weren't paved. So for the rest of the day, I put the Rooster through much more abuse than was required by bouncing over huge rocks, fish-tailing through deep sand, pressing through hard headwinds and pushing up steep hills. Decided to inform Jean-Michele he would have to keep going on his own cause my bike just couldn't handle this terrain. So we stayed one night at an organic farm then went our separate ways. Jean-Michele to explore the rest of the island, and myself to the beach to relax. Ometepe Island has a very special, magical feel that I was finally able to enjoy once off the bike. So will be leaving this island today and heading towards Costa Rica. Nicaragua has been much better than I anticipated and hopefully will be able to make it down here again before it becomes too touristy. Hasta manana....

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